Arriving at Cala Goloritzè, one of the untouched many paradises of the ‘wild’ Sardinia, is just like reaching an oasis after days of desert.
Not everybody wants to go there: because this small enclave -one of the dozens that open up along the Orosei gulf, between Dorgali and Arbatax -can only be reached on foot. Here the boats that offer day-long trips among the area’s enclaves do not dock, they only stop to gaze at the scenery.
Cala Goloritzè, in fact, was recently instituted as a National park, and as such, it is a 'protected reserve’. For this reason, the only way to reach it is departing from the 'Golgo', the mount before Baunei, and then continue on foot through a landscape that is decidedly worth the effort.
The walk starts right at the Golgo, with stone steps, a continues along a pebble road. The road is well marked, so you cannot go wrong, although walking it is easy to get distracted admiring the landscape: accompanying the path towards the sea is the true Mediterranean bush, with bushes of myrtle and Holm-oak.
Then there are towering calcareous rocks, culminating at the end of the trail in the Aguglia monolith, more than 144 metres high. The path unwinds on steep and narrow bends, and as you approach the destination the horizon opens up onto the sea, later to close again into the mountain rocks, with splendid colours changing nuance between white and pink.
The landscape is splendid in the morning and romantic in the evening and more enjoyable than in the roasting midday sun. On the sides of the trail, in any case, wide spaces open up within the plants to allow you some respite from the sweltering heat.
The trail closes when the gorge expands onto the sea, giving you a glimpse on the right of a semi cavern with wooden tables and benches here you can light a fire without endangering the nature of the enclave. Here you can also camp for the night, which you cannot do further down: a night between nature and billions of stars is a truly fascinating experience, worth trying out.
When you’ve passed this point, only a small spiral staircase separates you from the beach, and from here you can enjoy a breathtaking landscape: crystalline colours, a beach of micro white pebbles, and the Aguglia, where it is not rare to admire rock-climbers in action. Then, on the right hand side opens punta Goloritzè, and on the left the Grotta del Fico, once the natural home for the monk seal.
March.2003
Trekking in Cala Goloritzè
Baunei (In Italian)
Baunei trekking